Pasynkovanie is an important component of growing cucumbers. This procedure allows not only to make the bush more compact and simplify its care, but also significantly affects the quantity and quality of the fruits obtained.
The need for a procedure
To determine the need for stepsoning, one should understand what, in general, is the essence of this process. According to the biological description, cucumbers have one main shoot running straight from the root. It is customary to call it a whip, and, as a rule, most fruits ripen on it. Those stems that are on the sides of the central specimen are called stepchildren. They look like they are growing from the “bosom” between the main shoot and the leaf.
Over time, stepchildren develop to the same extent as the main lash, but the quality of the crop formed on them is still lower.
The lateral processes receive nutrition through the main stem, thereby taking those nutrients for their growth that could be directed to the formation of the cucumbers themselves. Thus, the removal of stepchildren allows you to direct all resources to the main task. This procedure is considered to be part of the formation of the plant. It should be mentioned that it is not always necessary to pinch cucumbers. For example, if no more than 2 side shoots are observed on a bush, then they will not cause much harm to the culture.
However, in some cases, the procedure is not enough. For example, this is true for small-sized greenhouses and greenhouses, whose internal space is simply not enough for growing shoots. Active intervention is also necessary in the case of dense plantings, which can become an ideal springboard for the development of diseases and the vital activity of insects. After formation, the main stems begin to receive more light and oxygen. It makes sense to carry out pinching in cases where it is necessary to increase the yield of a crop, achieve an early harvest, or reduce the size of the specimen to facilitate its care.
Methods
Pasynkovanie carried out in two main ways. In the first case, all unnecessary processes coming from the sinuses should be removed, starting from the nodal loop of the main lash. In the second, the lateral shoots will have to be torn off from the axils of the first 5-6 leaves, and the rest left, after which the ovaries in the first 3-4 leaves are also eliminated. The second option is relevant in the case when a sufficient distance is maintained between individual bushes, as it allows you to increase them in width. The first – it is customary to choose for densely planted cucumbers, which, after processing, begin to stretch upwards. In both cases, those stepchildren are subject to removal, the length of which does not go beyond the boundaries of 3-6 centimeters.
It is pointless to act while they are still small, and intervention too late can harm the entire bush.
Pinching schemes
To properly cut off cucumber stepchildren, it is wiser to use one of the existing schemes.
In open ground
Those varieties that live freely, without tying up on open ground, are allowed, in general, not to stepson. However, if the plant is fixed on a support, then it is better to form the main shoot from it, and clear the sinuses from the processes. You can also remove not all stepchildren, but leave a few small ones containing no more than 6 nodes – this method is suitable for hybrids or varieties pollinated by insects. A good solution would be to form an inverted pyramid on the open ground. In this case, the 1st and 2nd sinuses are cleared of stepchildren, and in the 3rd and 4th they are pinched to a couple of knots. All subsequent processes are allowed to reach a length of 40 centimeters.
Self-pollinated varieties are proposed to be placed on a triangular support. In this case, having risen 30-40 centimeters above ground level, you will need to cut off all the leaves. From 40 to 80 cm, stepchildren are completely cut off, but leaves and ovaries of the main stem are left in a ratio of 1: 1. A height from 80 to 120 cm requires saving 1 ovary and a leaf already on the side shoots. The stepchildren themselves pinch, reaching a length of 20 centimeters. At a height of 120 to 150 cm, the side shoots already retain 2-3 ovaries and 2-3 leaves, and pinch the rest. Finally, everything above is kept unchanged.
In the greenhouse
In a greenhouse or greenhouse, a “grandfather” pruning scheme is often used, ideal for heavily branched varieties pollinated by bees. You should start by removing all shoots that have arisen up to 4 leaves. Further, after waiting for the formation of 7-9 leaves, you will have to pinch the main stem. At this stage, it is customary to leave three strong side shoots, and remove the rest. On the remaining stepchildren, 4 knots are left, after which they must be pinched. In order for the “grandfather” scheme to work optimally, a grid should also be placed near the landings, along which the lateral processes can crawl up.
Following the classic scheme of pinching on closed ground is simple and affordable. With its help, it will be possible to arrange parthenocarpic hybrids, as well as those selection results that are pollinated by bees and branch moderately. Step by step following the algorithm, you should start working only when the main lash stretches up to 50 centimeters and forms the first 3-4 leaves. At this stage, absolutely all stepsons and rudiments of ovaries should be cut, but leaf blades should be left.
When the height of the cucumber reaches 1 meter, it’s time to remove the lower leaves, already cleared of side shoots. At the top of the whip at this time, one ovary remains for each sinus.
The height of the plant, equal to one and a half meters, is a signal that only 2 leaves and two ovaries should be left on the side shoots, eliminating all the rest. Finally, the number of knots is reduced to 3 pieces, and when the bush stretches 2 meters, pinching will generally have to be stopped by throwing the whip over the trellis, or by pinching it.
For growing parthenocarpic varieties on a trellis, the “Danish Umbrella” was invented. This scheme requires dividing the main branch into three parts: the first will contain from 1 to 5 sheets, the second – from 5 to 9 sheets and, finally, the third – from 9 to 20 sheets. The first is freed from everything: from all side shoots, and from ovaries. On the second, stepchildren are completely cut off, and one ovary is left for each node. The most difficult thing is with the third fragment: from 9 to 14 leaves, 2 ovaries are stored for each sinus. In the 14th sinus, the ovaries are removed, but the stepson remains. In the future, when a couple of sheets form on it, it will need to be pinched.
From 15 to 20 sinuses, processing is carried out in the same way, but 2 short stepchildren are already preserved, between which there is at least one node. The stepson in the 20th sinus does not touch, but pinches upon reaching 8 full-fledged leaves. Upon completion of the procedure, the main whip is placed on the trellis. Leaves are counted from its top, and the second is determined. The stepson, emerging from his sinus, does not touch until the formation of 5 leaves, and then pinches. The continuation lashes are allowed to form three stepchildren of the second stage, on which, after the third sheet, the growth point is generally removed.
Finally, the in a greenhouse, it is convenient to adhere to the “One lash” scheme, developed for bouquet and beam parthenocarpic varieties, but not suitable for those varieties that are pollinated by insects. Up to the sinus of the 4th leaf, all lateral stems and ovaries are removed, and from 4 to 17, the stepchildren are cut off, and the ovaries are preserved. Those processes that form between the 18th and 20th sinuses are pinched up to 2 sheets. The cucumber lash is fixed on the trellis, and its top is pinched when it reaches the required length.
It should be mentioned that on the windowsill and on the balcony, the culture should also be stepsoned, promptly removing the growing mustache.
Aftercare
Cucumbers selected for pinching require special care. It is better to water the treated bushes only with the water that is taken from a lake or river. This variety contains a minimal amount of salt, which negatively affects plants. If you still have to use tap water, then you need to let it settle – collect it in the evening and leave it until the morning. It is equally important that the liquid is not cold, as ice moisture injures the roots of cucumbers, as a result of which the development of the culture slows down, and the taste characteristics of the fruit deteriorate.
It is not necessary to heat the water strongly – it is enough to let it warm up naturally for several hours, placing it in the sun, putting it in a greenhouse or bringing it into the house. The optimum temperature is recognized as one that does not go beyond the boundaries of the interval of 18-20 degrees. Too hot liquid will also negatively affect the condition of cucumbers. It will be correct to water the plants after pinching in the morning – so the water will be several degrees warmer than the earth.
When the formation of ovaries stops at the bushes, which usually happens in the second half of summer, they will need to be fed. Many gardeners prefer a folk recipe that requires soaking fish waste in water with a ratio of 1: 2. The mixture is left in the dark and warm until foam appears, and then supplemented with ash so that a glass of powder is poured into each liter. The jet of the resulting mixture is directed under the root, after which you can proceed to pinching. So that fungal spores do not get into the wound of the stem, it can be sprayed with copper-containing Oxychum. By the way, after the procedure, it will be useful to remove dried, damaged or diseased leaves.
The ground near the cucumber bushes should be loosened regularly, especially on hot days, when the dried soil quickly turns into a crust that does not allow oxygen to pass through. Equally important is the elimination of weeds that deprive the crop of nutrients. Stepping, which is a stressful procedure, is best accompanied by top dressing of the crop.
