Arrangement of a green gazebo in the country

Arrangement of a green gazebo in the countryOne of the most difficult tasks of arbosculpture is the arrangement of the building. In order for a green gazebo from growing trees to serve not only as an element of decor in the country, but also to carry a functional load, it is necessary to form a roof and carry out interior decoration.

Roof formation

If the top-most shoots of the trunks grow much higher than the desired room height, it’s time to start shaping the green roof. The height of the room cannot be determined immediately. The height is determined by various factors: the type of tree, climatic conditions, soil conditions, etc. The height values ​​presented below, in this regard, should be taken only as indicative values.

In a small-leaved tree, for example, a hornbeam, the height of the resulting room with a circle diameter of 4 to 5 m and a conical shape of the upper section is approximately 4 m.With a circle of trees with a maximum diameter of 3 m, the height of the room in the highest place may be approximately 2,5 m.

With such small objects, it will be enough to form a roof if we circle a rope around the tops of the trees and pull them together. However, we can do this only if most of the trees are of such length that, after pulling together, the tops of the trees can again freely protrude upward. When tightening, which is best done gradually, we incorporate each plant into the bundle little by little. In this case, the tops of the shoots can again grow up freely. We do not pull weak shoots inward yet, but allow them to grow further up and out. Only when the upper ends of the shoots have become long enough, the gazebo room is closed from above.

With this tightening method, the overall upper area of ​​the green walls is tilted inward. If it is necessary that the diameter of the living gazebo remains constant in the area of ​​the roof, then a support structure is installed there. It consists of the longest twigs of willow, hazel or other tree or shrub, which are firmly connected to each other 8 in advance by a corresponding large ring. For the frame, it is best to bend the strong wire using pliers. At the height of the roof protrusion, this ring is fixed in the netting with a rope or attached to the rods lying outside. Since the tree branches at the top of the gazebo are still slightly crossed, this support structure will help the individual trees stay at the same height. Being in the same row, they will quickly grow together into a dense structure.

If the ring of trees is held together, we can put a strong rope around all the long tops of the shoots protruding above it and tighten it.

Even now, at the preparatory stage, we can feel what tremendous power is hidden in these relatively small trees. One, two or three trunks of young trees can be easily moved in any direction. But if there are already ten or more of them, the situation is completely different – we already have to make certain efforts to form these trees. Note also that our trees are slightly thicker and stronger.

When talking about large objects (from 4 m in diameter), it should be noted that pulling the rope around all the tops of the trees is unlikely to bring the trees to the desired position. Here we must proceed in stages.

In late autumn, when all the side shoots have been removed and the wicker structure is more or less ordered, we prepare the necessary materials and tools.

We need:

  • one standing ladder (stepladder) and one extension ladder;
  • a sharp knife and garden shears;
  • thick rope 150 m long and a coil of rope;
  • from 12 to 14 rods about 1,5-2 m long, freshly cut from hazel, willow or similar trees;
  • about 30 thick, short pieces of wood about 30 cm long, which we get when cutting the rods of the same tree

From a thick cable (strong “veal rope” or clothesline) we cut 15 pieces from 8 to 10 meters long. The minimum rope length should be slightly more than the current height of the trees (about 4-6 m). We cut several short strips of about 20 cm long from the coil of rope. We will need them to tie the outer and inner rods that we need to lay, as well as to protect the crutch. Using the stepladder, we start working on the upper section of the wicker fence. Lay horizontally, inside and outside, one bar at a time so that they hook about 8-12 tops of the shoots. We first connect both of these rods in the middle, and then, respectively, on the right and left at the ends. In the middle of the interconnected rods, we fix one of the long cables. Depending on the size and rounding of the living gazebo, we will have to repeat all this three, four, five or even six times. Now we grab the ends of the ropes and use them to pull the trees held by the rods inward and downward until they form a partial horizontal and fix this position. If at the same time there are enough helpers with you (two or three people), you will be able to pull down the parts of the walls, each of which consists of 8-12 tops of the shoots, and fix them. If there is no one nearby to help you, attach the ends of the traction cable to heavy objects or tie them with a simple knot to the bottom of the opposite wall.

You can also use another method: tie the cable to a tree on the opposite wicker wall, climb the stairs, lay the cable over both rods and pull them down along with the tops of the shoots. In this case, it is more convenient, if the cable is of sufficient length, to get off the ladder and pull it down, while being on the ground.

We tie the prepared 30-centimeter pieces of wood to both ends of the rope. They serve to make the end of the cable heavier when being thrown, and also as a crutch. The rope, weighted with a crutch, we throw from the outside through the part of the living arbor bent inward. If the cable after the first throw is not yet in the desired position, we straighten it with a ladder or pole until it is in the right place. Then we fix one of its ends in the lower strong part of the netting and go to the other end of the thrown cable and pull the cable until the desired slope of the captured trees is reached. Since next year we will have to remove these crutches in order to tighten the trees lagging behind in development, we will not make a double, but only one simple knot and one loop. A short, sturdy piece of wood at the end of the rope, after tension, is secured to a sturdy bottom section of the wall by passing it through the wall grates and positioning it across the crossed trees.

The connecting cable from the lower, tightly intertwined section, passing over the bent trees, again descends down to the wall. At the same time, do not pull the cable too tightly – the tops of the shoots should still look up, since if you bend them down too much, they lose flexibility. This means that they stop growing in length and form fruit wood. This method is used for fruit trees, but it is undesirable for a live arbor. The tops of the shoots, even after the roof has been formed, should maintain their main direction – up. To comply with this requirement, it will be sufficient if their inclination towards the center is about 20 °. The final slope of the roof will only be reached when, next year or even later, the shoots of the trees tighten completely.

If the external tension is fixed, then it is possible to disconnect those ropes with the help of which the rods were pulled inward on this segment. The Outside Rope now holds the Trees firmly. The first and last pair of bars still remain in position until they are secured by the next and finally the last tension cable.

With the last, 8-10 trees already pulled inward, we work further, using free rods. We again connect 8-10 tops of the shoots with two rods, in the center of each of the rods we fix a long traction cable, then pull this segment inward.

Then we put the ladder a little further, moving on to the next segment, etc. Each subsequent external tension, carried out by throwing the cables, covers about 20 trees or a segment about 2 m wide, and the tension cables will intersect with each other. Trees that rush outward press with retroactive force, and thanks to this we get a round shape of the gazebo on all sides.

The lagging, weaker tops of the shoots did not bend inward before, and now they freely rush upward towards the light. For another year or two, they will be able to enjoy freedom and grow up vigorously.

In order not to stop the growth of the tree in height, right now it is necessary to remove or shorten the newly formed side shoots. As a matter of fact, the gazebo is ready when the side shoots are collected from all sides in the middle.

This last phase will require a little more patience on our part. Before the green roof can be closed completely, individual trees must be strong enough.

Only then will they be able to withstand the snow load and strong winds.

Best of all, we’ll wait another year, giving the trees some more time to get a little thicker and stronger. Keep as much foliage as possible during this period. Side shoots are not completely removed – after the formation of two or three pairs of leaves, only the tops of the shoots are cut off. The larger the diameter of the living arbor and, consequently, the distance to the opposite wall of the netting, the higher, longer and stronger the young trunks should be. In this final phase, the weaker shoot tips easily deflect inward or outward and bend downward. If we do not now help the trees to take an upright position, they will stop growing in height. We can do this by bringing them out and tying them to stronger trees pointing out and up. For the same purpose, a long cable is also used, drawn around all the tops of the shoots in such a way that, when pulled, the outer tops are attracted inward, and the inner ones outward. This problem can also be solved by placing and securing other rods fixed in a horizontal position.

The construction of our living gazebo is nearing completion. The end comes when the trees are strong enough. They should also be of sufficient height so that, after being pulled together, their tops protrude outward (upward).

You can pull down and connect trees separately. You should start with especially large, tall and sturdy trees. They form the lowest layer, on which they gradually overlap and on which all other, weaker trees are tied.

The height of the natural structure makes trimming jobs more labor intensive. But this problem can be dealt with by using a ladder and small garden shears (mechanical or electric). The trees, which have become quite strong by this time, hold the ladder easily and it will be safe for you to work.

To prevent any tree from dying, we must make sure that the leaves and branches from the young trunks that form our roof can sprout everywhere. Now we don’t have to prune weaker trees – we just need to straighten them.

If we further process our natural structure, then we will get a special, original room – namely, a living gazebo. Such a gazebo does not create a large shade, does not shed foliage to neighbors and does not require special care. But still, in this form, our structure is permeable to rain. Stability and impermeability can be easily achieved thanks to the waterproof inner stretch. Otherwise, no more work on trees is needed. All trees are directed outward, that is, turned towards the light. On outdoor plots, we keep them growing by pruning regularly.

Trees that have grown to the highest point of the green roof are now freely interconnected, while weak lagging trees can still be woven.

Strong trees lean down (as far as possible), and then they are brought out again, so that there is more space in the center for weak and lagging plants. In all strong trunks that have grown to the highest point, lateral shoots directed upward and outward are again removed. Side shoots growing to the side or downward can be left as long as they do not obscure other trees. With the help of horizontally laid inside and outside and interconnected rods of hazel or willow with a length of about 1,5-2 m on the roof section above and at the highest point of the natural structure, we manage to more or less parallel a large number of trees suitable from all sides, and also achieve the same height for all trees. Strong trees support weak trees, which would otherwise fall and reduce their growth.

Only when the weaker trees reach their highest point, all trees can and should grow together. This process can be accelerated. It is often recommended to fasten two opposite trees with a SPAX3 screw and a wide colored tape. The SPAX screw connects the tissue of the cell formation, and the wide band reduces the range of motion caused by the wind.

These activities are carried out in the spring when the plants are giving new shoots. As with budding, the trees must be filled with sap. Often, already during the next growing seasons, they grow together so much that at the latest by the beginning of the next year, the tape can be removed. Until this moment, it should not be removed, because in the winter it protects the fusion site. We leave the bolts where they are. They completely overgrow without any harm to the trees and give the splice additional support. Now a mighty, wide, large and thick roof is being formed. Growth is necessary – this contributes to the fact that our natural structure will become more stable and resilient. While buildings made of inanimate matter (stone, concrete) require constant protection from the moment of their construction, and buildings made of sawn wood must be constantly protected from decay, which is costly, our living building is gaining more and more strength, value and beauty.

Arrangement of a green gazebo in the country

Over time, the wider parts of the crown will become thick and strong. They will cover the roof surface so much that new shoots can no longer develop from themselves. Now it depends on us how wide and high we want to see our living roof. The more foliage masses can develop, the more wood is formed. The trunks are getting thicker and thicker, and soon the holes in the walls of the living gazebo will close.

The growth of the finished gazebo is limited to the increase in thickness. The position and height of window openings, walls and roof remain unchanged as we set them when weaving. Soon, even water will not be able to seep through the roof and walls. Plant structures in the form of mosses, small grasses and weeds will form an outer protective living layer.

The peculiarity of the green roof covering is that it is necessary to cut the shoots of the roof not close to the trunk wood, but somewhere up to 10 cm. The residues obtained during pruning are evenly laid out on the live weaving between the rods. Short “rods” left in this state start up new shoots and branch out. Falling leaves and other branches are also preserved, and over time they form a humus pad.

The more often we “trim the hedge”, the smaller the branches become, and the branches and leaves that remain in this place. This makes the green coating thicker and therefore more effective protection. This coverage can be even better if we lay a coarse mesh, similar to an onion net. The only thing worth paying attention to is that this network should not be made of synthetics. The net is laid on an inclined roof surface immediately after the first pruning of all shoots, in some places it hangs down to the side walls.
Trees, passing their branches through the net, fix it. All foliage and small branches remain hanging in this net. Trees such as willow and gray alder constantly form roots where they come in contact with damp earth or humus. Therefore, they grow in our roof mulch layer as well. This layer is an additional source of food for trees.

Germinating roots allows the green roof to become even denser, more resilient and durable.

It should be mentioned here that in the natural method of construction, a system of double-walled buildings is also possible: dense weaving of willow is covered with humus, willows grow through a humus pad and can, just like in the earthen pile, form frost-resistant rooms for winter storage of vegetables and fruits.

Interior finish

The inner space of the gazebo after planting trees, even without additional equipment, forms a protected room, where you can easily take an air bath or relax during leisure hours.

Gender

If the terrain is not entirely flat, then it is possible to install the floor with the help of bars, which are attached to the foundation and serve as the basis for the floorboards or panels. With the help of the foundation, you can easily smooth out all the irregularities. In addition, thanks to the foundation, the ground under the floor is not compacted, and therefore the surface of the ground used by the roots of our plants is not limited. Since many wood antiseptics and impregnating agents negatively affect the activity of the roots and the plant as a whole, larch wood as a floor covering will be quite a good choice, since it, even in its untreated form, can withstand moisture and bad weather for quite a long time. The main thing is that there is no direct contact with the ground.

Arrangement of a green gazebo in the country

Depending on the soil surface, screed, stone slabs, fine gravel, gravel and sand, compacted clay or bark mulch can be used as flooring.

Window openings

In each phase of the growth of our structure, branches and foliage are left free, which are windows, providing illumination to the living gazebo, and also so that we can look out from the gazebo.

So that daylight is in a living gazebo and when the trees are densely overgrown from above and around, glass blocks or other translucent materials can be inserted into the mesh netting, which then also grow into the structure. Glass blocks of various colors and shapes can be purchased at specialized building materials stores. The advantage of glass blocks is that they do not need a frame, they are very durable and, due to their thickness, remain functional even when the wicker wall becomes thicker during the first phase of growth.

To install rather heavy glass blocks, it is often not enough just to insert it into the netting. Therefore, as an additional fastening, they must be clamped from the outside and from the inside between flexible rods until the trees cover the glass blocks, and the influx (overgrowing of the tree’s wound) will hold them in place. Here we are helped by such an amazing property of trees, which consists in capturing over time objects that stand in the way of their growth. Fastening wires or metal parts will also overgrow without problems.

If not only light but also air must enter the gazebo, then, of course, you can install small windows with a frame – also from living plants.

Since the trees grow together at the intersections, the size of the window opening is limited. But if we remove parts of the trees between the accreted intersection points, then all the parts of the trees around the window will be used by the plants as paths for transporting nutrient juices and will be provided along with other parts of the trees.

The standard setting of rectangular windows does not follow the lines of the tree structure in our natural structure. Given the location of the trees, we mount the window obliquely, and not vertically, which corresponds to the diamond-shaped structure of a living gazebo. The window installed in this way will look more harmonious. An even more suitable window would be in the form of an oblong oval, which least of all obstructs the flow of juice, but it is rather difficult to achieve such a shape.

Walls

If the gazebo is finally formed upward, then the cells in the wicker wall are still relatively wide and open. So far, only foliage and interwoven side shoots create a certain protection. However, to quickly get a space that protects us from wind, rain and cold, open tree cells can be filled with materials such as straw, straw-reinforced clay, hay or moss.

As an intermediate step, you can install a second rain-resistant layer, such as a tarp, which will protect us from the rain until a living gazebo takes over this function. They also use a tent, a stretched and loosened dome, and other similar structures.

These photos show the ideas for arranging a green gazebo in the country with your own hands:

Arrangement of a green gazebo in the country
Arrangement of a green gazebo in the country
Arrangement of a green gazebo in the country
Arrangement of a green gazebo in the country

Second floor

In large trees, for example, maple, ash, oak, beech and others, a platform or something like an upper floor can be formed from the shoots of the roof, provided that the diameter of the living gazebo is not too large, and the gazebo itself is very high. You can even conceive a protruding balcony or gallery.

Work at height is, of course, quite difficult. The strength and stability of the green roof and trees in the first two or three years is not yet so great that a living gazebo can support the weight of a person. Despite this, we need to have access to all places to be able to make adjustments, as well as carry out the molding and braiding work. We will use ladders and frames or lifting platforms for this. In addition, we need additional tools: scissors for pruning branches, etc.

Just like in the lower section of the wicker wall, at the top, the individual trunks, in a young and flexible state, allow themselves to be weaved, molded and fixed. At the same time, it is important that each trunk coming from the bottom is sufficiently provided with assimilates (i.e., nutrients formed in the leaf). This can be ensured by its own chlorophyll or by ”joining with another tree, which takes over the supply of nutrients from its foliage.

The dimensions of the second floor of the gazebo, depending on the growth characteristics and the growth capacity of the trees used, can be two-thirds of the height and width of the lower room. As already mentioned, it is important that the plants from above can form the maximum possible mass of assimilates (foliage), so that the green walls will soon become more durable and, ultimately, close. Shoots protruding strongly from the sloping surface of the green roof are chopped off.

No later than after shaping the second floor, our trees should begin to grow spaciously in width and height, thus producing a large mass of foliage, which is necessary for the formation of wood. We intervene in the process only when certain parts of the crown become too large – A large working surface in strong winds harms overgrowth, which may require taking care of a proportional ratio between the stability and weight of the leaf by shortening too large protruding parts of the crown.

Ladder made of wood

Another original idea for arranging a green summer cottage is to create a staircase made of wood.

To do this, we will additionally plant several seedlings (geysters) on the sides and, with the help of a frame, give them the shape of steps and a covered gallery. Individual steps are formed from side shoots that tilt to the side and are fixed to the frame. Since the power of these geysters must flow into the lateral shoots, the main shoot will sink strongly and intertwine with other geysters, and the foliage will shrink. It is necessary that the main shoot grow below until the lateral shoot forming the step has matured, acquiring a commensurate strength. The common juveniles developing on the left and right of the wooden staircase are used to form a covered gallery leading to the upper levels. Only the steps themselves are protected from overgrowing with any young shoots.

In addition to this, a separate geyster is planted near the wall, which after a while should form a second rung for the stairs. All lateral shoots are removed from this plant, since it must grow in height with only one single shoot. After the tree has grown, it is brought into an inclined position in accordance with the future ladder. We can achieve this if we drive a short wooden peg into the ground at an angle, on which we fix a rope with a bent tree, and also if we plant a second geyster as an auxiliary support.

The branches growing out of the wall, which will later form the steps, should now grow in length. We then attach them to this curved geyster. It is possible to speed up the process of growing branches with the trunk of a geyster using the recommendations that will be given below.

Accelerated fusion

We can help trees grow together by fastening the side branches on a tilted tree planted on the side using our special staples. But we can achieve a better, safer and faster fusion if we connect the parts of the trees to each other with a SPAX screw. The most suitable moment for this is April, at which time vaccinations are provided in most nurseries. By this time, the tree is filled with sap, the bark peels off easily, and the plant has a whole year at its disposal – enough time for the junction to overgrow.

Thanks to the screw, a small amount of bast fibers containing cambium (cell formation tissue) are driven into another tree. This alone will be enough for the two trees to grow together, as in the case of budding.

Nursery workers and grafting professionals cut and insert lining in both trees and then insert them into each other, but my experience has shown that screwing has the same result.

After accretion, which can occur after only one growing season, the screw can be removed. But he can still grow completely into the tree without causing him any harm. Only when sawing wood later can the screw cause difficulties. But this is already the problem of our great-great-grandchildren.

Due to the fact that initially the connection is still unstable, and every movement of the wind in bad weather harms it, we must take care of additional support. To do this, we will fix the joint with a grafting tape.

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Anna Evans

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